March 8: For a Fashion that Liberates!

The fashion industry relies on women. They spend more on clothing than men and hold most entry-level jobs. According to the International Labour Organization, between 60% and 80% of textile workers worldwide are women.

Yet, they remain the primary victims of gender inequality.
Compared to their male colleagues, they are the most affected by job insecurity, low wages, and working conditions that have changed little over the past decades. Amnesty International reports numerous cases of violence, harassment, and discrimination in their workplaces. In practice, they rarely have the opportunity to create or join unions, depriving them of a means of collective defense.

This exploitation is also reflected in their exclusion from leadership positions in major fashion brands, revealing a deeply ingrained gender hierarchy. Less than 50% of the most well-known women's fashion brands are designed by women, and only 14% of major fashion brands are led by a woman. The fashion industry seems to see women more as mere executors—“small hands”—rather than full-fledged creators.

But this discrimination goes beyond working conditions; it also shapes how women are represented in fashion. The concept of male gaze, theorized by Laura Mulvey, refers to this dominant male perspective that influences fashion creations and the portrayal of women in media.

The female body, often presented as a mere object of desire or a normative ideal, is subjected to the dictates of the fashion industry. Women are constantly confronted with rigid beauty standards, where thinness is perceived as a symbol of discipline and social control.

In this context, Simone de Beauvoir’s statement, “One is not born, but rather becomes, a woman,” takes on its full meaning. Fashion plays a central role in constructing this femininity by imposing dress codes that define and rigidify gender roles. Clothing is not just about covering the body; it shapes our identity and our place in society. However, fashion creations, often conceived from a male perspective, perpetuate beauty and behavioral norms that trap women in contradictory expectations.

These norms function as tools of control. In the past, the corset limited women’s mobility; the color black restricted their freedom to rebuild their lives after mourning. Even today, their bodies and clothing are subjected to judgments and criticism. A body deemed “too round” is perceived as a lack of discipline. A skirt that is too short or a low neckline is considered vulgar or even a provocation that justifies sexual assault: “She was asking for it.” On the other hand, attire considered too modest can be associated with submission.

As a major cultural and economic player, the fashion industry has the power to change these dynamics. It is time to rethink fashion through an inclusive and feminist lens, where women are not just consumers or exploited workers but  creators and decision-makers.

This March 8, let’s demand fashion that liberates rather than confines. Let’s demand an industry that values the women who make it thrive.