Is this the end of self-regulation for apparel brands?

Is this the end of self-regulation for apparel brands?

Since the tragic collapse of Rana Plaza in 2013, which killed 1,134 people, and the numerous reports of the textile industry's harmful impact on the environment, the collective conscience has been awakened to the production conditions in the fashion industry and its environmental impact. In response, many brands have sought to improve their image by claiming to be more 'sustainable'. But behind the green facade, the reality is often very different.

In its report 'Self-regulation: a fashion fairytale', Greenpeace highlighted in November 2021 the limitations of self-regulation in the fashion industry. According to the organisation, the idea that companies will voluntarily sacrifice a portion of their profits to reduce pollution and improve working conditions is a "convenient fantasy".
Another common risk is greenwashing. Faced with growing consumer demand for more sustainable fashion, some brands do not hesitate to sugarcoat the reality by making misleading claims about their environmental practices. This makes it difficult for consumers to distinguish between truly sustainable approaches and those that are merely a smokescreen.

For years, many organisations defending the environment and the rights of textile workers have been calling for strong government regulation. Now lawmakers are beginning to respond.

In France, a law proposal aiming to reduce the environmental impact of the textile industry is currently being considered by the Senate. On 14 March, the French National Assembly fast-tracked the bill, which would require the fast-fashion industry to disclose the environmental impact of its products, impose an environmental fine for those that exceed a certain threshold, and ban fast-fashion advertising.

At the end of September, the Governor of the State of California signed the Senate bill n°707 that will make textile manufacturers, including major brands, financially responsible for managing these materials at the end of their life. This could include funding for drop-off points across the state.
The law requires manufacturers of certain apparel and other textile products to establish a producer responsibility organisation that will fund statewide reuse, repair and recycling programmes.

While still isolated and in their infancy, these initiatives offer hope for the advent of stricter regulation of an industry responsible for around 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions and numerous social abuses. It is imperative that these projects succeed and are scaled up to truly transform a sector that, despite its seductive potential, still hides many grey areas.
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